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Interview: Charles SiegelPosted on September 30, 2005 by Jeremy Nisen |
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There are few things as beloved as chocolate--it can change moods, please crowds, make an otherwise forgettable event suddenly memorable. It's magical. And it can concern us sometimes, as with recent local chocolatiers selling operations to the big boys. Among the folks still doing it locally--and well--is Chuck Siegel of Charles Chocolates. Talk about a community business: he, in fact, is currently using a kitchen at the JCC to make his product (see below). A few weeks ago, we checked out Charles Chocolates' mocha java bar --and we liked it (and we want another one. Not to mention some of his other products.). |
The man behind the brand got in touch with us shortly thereafter, both to give some positive feedback--but more so to set us straight on a few things related to the chocolate business, namely the straight dope on chocolate percentage versus intensity. And it's interesting stuff (more on this below as well).
We saw this as an excellent opportunity to open a dialogue with a local chocolatier, and Mr. Siegel agreed to be the subject of an SFist interview. Read on for the story behind the man with what we think must be the coolest job in town. And maybe have something to snack on handy--because, boy, this made us salivate.
What is your history in the chocolate industry? The impetus for your start as a chocolate maker?
I was trying to impress a girl I was dating in college. She loved chocolate and complained that there was no good chocolate in upstate New York, the quality of the chocolates that were available there at the time were mediocre at best.
I moved to San Francisco in June of 1986. Shortly after arriving, I was asked to make something chocolate for a potluck holiday party here in town. I ended up making what would become the first product offered by by my first chocoate company, Attivo Confections. It was a large Granny Smith apple coated with a soft cream caramel that was then dipped in bittersweet chocolate and coated with macadamia nut pieces.
I sold Attivo after 7 years, and spent time working at several start-ups around the Bay Area. I would occasionally work as a consultant to other chocolate companies, keeping my toes in those waters as well. A little more than a year ago, I started developing the line of chocolates that became Charles Chocolates. After about 6 months of development work, and many tastings with friends and family, I started selling my new products.
Is it true you were making your current line of chocolates in the kitchen at a JCC for a while? Any story behind that?
I am still making my chocolates at the San Francisco JCC (though we are finalizing plans to move into our new candy kitchen later this fall).
For obvious reasons, food products for sale need to be made in a commercial kitchen. When I started Charles Chocolates I went looking for a kitchen to use to manufacture my products. During that search I discovered that the new JCC had built 3 kitchens (one general kitchen, one kosher meat kitchen and one kosher dairy kitchen), one of which was being under-utilized. After discussions with the staff there, I created a proposal for the use of the kosher dairy kitchen for the production of my chocolates.
It has been a wonderful relationship - I have had access to a beautifully built-out kitchen during the early growth of my business, and the staff of the JCC has enjoyed untold thousands of samples...
One of the most interesting things is an insight into the creative process. We would love to know just how an expert chocolatier goes about creating a signature confection!
It's very similar to the process a chef undertakes in creating a new dish. You look for inspiration in the things you enjoy.
A good example is our Mojito Heart. My wife Shabana and I happen to enjoy mojitos, and one night, over a mojito at the restaurant Habana, we started talking about a mojito truffle. I spent the next few days playing around with the main ingredients in a mojito (fresh mint, lime juice and dark rum) along with the organic cream and butter from Strauss Family Farms that we use and several different blends of bittersweet chocolate.
Our Mojito Heart was the result - it starts with cream that has been infused with bunches of fresh, organic, spearmint. We then blend in lime juice and dark Jamaican rum, bittersweet chocolate and a little bit of butter.
(Ed. note: See a pic of it and other company truffles HERE. OMFG. Hungry yet?)
Running a small business in San Francisco -- any particular advantages? Disadvantages? Quirks/irregularities from what you might expect elsewhere?
The really stunning advantage is that we are in an area where locals really appreciate good food and good desserts. We have grown primarily through word of mouth, it has been wonderful to see our chocolates grow in popularity during our first year in business. I'm not sure that this could have occured anywhere else but in San Francisco.
On the practical side, I've been here a long time, so operating a business here is now no different for me than operating one somewhere else.
How did you end up here in town?
I had an opportunity to move here with a friend from college and took it. I grew up in Flint, MI and went to school in Rochester, NY, so California looked like paradise - and it is. I moved here in 1986, and except for 1 year on the Peninsula, I have lived in San Francisco the entire time.
What is your first -- or most memorable --experience with chocolate?
Eating a Teuscher Champagne Truffle on a vacation to New York when I was very young was my first really memorable experience of great chocolate.
Favorite brand of chocolate or candy, other than your own?
Jean-Paul Hevn in Paris is one of the most exceptional and innovative chocolatiers around. He makes wonderful chocolates.
One thing about chocolate or the business of chocolate you'd like to set the record straight on/let the casual consumer know about?
There are two things that I think everyone should pay attention to.
One is that chocolates are best fresh. Premium chocolatiers use fresh cream and butter, neither of which get better with age -- buy small amounts often rather than letting them sit at home while you ration it out over a few weeks.
Also, don't give the percentage of cocoa more value than it deserves. The number plays only a supporting role in the quality and origin of the beans, the darkness and consistency of the roast, and the proportion of cocoa solids to cocoa butter in the mix.
If the only thing that mattered was that it was 70% cocoa, Hershey's never would have bought Scharfenberger, they would have just made their own 70% bar.
Home Town:
Flint, Michigan
How much time have you spent in the Bay Area?:
Almost 20 years
Favorite Web site:
www.charleschocolates.com (of course). I also love craigslist, Atom Films.
Favorite local business (aside from your own!):
I have about 100 favorites, but I'll only mention a few:
Yum Yum fish on Irving St. has a great little sushi counter and one of the best fresh fish markets in one store.
BiRite Market is what every neighborhood should have (I wish mine did). It has the perfect combination of staples, prepared foods and wonderful produce.
SmartsCo. is a great little publishing company that produces trivia learning games on great topics like, chocolate, food, wine and sex. Besides, when Jennifer Elias was interviewed here, she mentioned Charles Chocolates as her favorite local business.
What you are currently reading?
The World is Flat
Best deal in San Francisco:
I have to mention Yum Yum fish again. They have the best sushi deal in town.
Favorite mode of transportation:
My feet
Favorite local hangout:
Home with my family, I don't get enough time for that these days.
You've never lived in SF until:
Run the Bay to Breakers nude
You can tell someone is a local here IF:
I don't know, I can never tell...
Best Burrito:
El Farolito
Best Restaurant:
There are dozens, and I don't want to offend anyone here
Best movie scene filmed in or about SF:
The chase scene in Bullitt of course.
Best thing to do in the city in the summer:
Stern Grove on a nice day, anything outside of the city, and can be as little as 1 mile outside, on a foggy day.
Favorite author to come out of the Bay Area:
Daniel Handler (so says my daughter)
Favorite Bridge in the area:
Golden Gate - I know, but it is truly magnificent.
You have two hours and $15 bucks to kill in SF, what are you going to do?
Get a 49er roll at Ebisu
I have found/sold/bought the following on craigslist:
My Contax G2
I want all the SFists out there to know:
that despite all of it's problems, San Francisco is still the greatest place to live.
Well, we second that wholeheartedly, Chuck. Thanks again!